Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are used in order to ‘resurface’
the skin, leading to a more youthful and radiant
complexion. They can be used to treat fine lines
and wrinkles, improve the skin’s texture and
tone, which makes them excellent for anti-ageing
skincare preparations. They can also be used to
unblock and refine pores, making them useful in
anti-acne products.
Glycolic acid (derived from sugar), malic acid (occurs
in unripe fruit such as apples and cherries) and
lactic acid (derived from milk) are the most commonly
AHAs used. Medik8 are pioneers in the use of Mandelic
Acid, a lipid-soluble AHA. These fruit acids exfoliate
the surface levels of skin in order to reveal the
fresh, smooth skin underneath. Dermatologists use
AHAs in order to perform strong chemical peels;
or a lower concentration can be used at home to
achieve the same results over a longer period of
time.
However, users of AHAs should be careful as they
may irritate the skin, leading to redness, irritation
and itching. When using AHAs long term, it is important
to use sun protection to avoid causing sun damage
to the skin that you have so carefully restored.
The use of chirally-correct L-Mandelic Acid (as
by Medik8) can severely limit the degree of skin
sensitivity while producing powerful results. Since
L-Mandelic Acid is lipid soluble, it can penetrate
into the skin pores and give deep cleansing and
help manage acne-prone skin.
Salicylic Acid is the Beta Hydroxy Acid (The BHA
that Medik8 use). It is derived from the same acid
as aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) and found in the
rich bark of the willow tree. Like AHAs It too has
exfoliation properties, but is much less irritating
to the skin and can work at a much lower concentration
to achieve the same effect. Salicylic Acid is lipid
soluble and is used to treat skin that is prone
to acne, blocked pores or breakouts as it sloughs
away the dead surface skin, preventing the pores
from clogging up, which would lead to congested
skin.
As with AHAs, BHA also makes the skin more susceptible
to sun damage after prolonged use, and so the user
should increase their sun protection to ensure that
no further damage occurs.
How an active is delivered to the skin
is of the utmost importance. To quote our founder,
There’s no point having a magic bullet if
there’s no gun to fire it”, meaning
that having an effective active is only half of
the process - it is imperative that it is able to
reach its intended destination in the cell membrane
where it is able to function. This means that choosing
the delivery method for the active ingredient is
of invaluable importance.
There are three primary routes that an active can
penetrate: the sweat pore, the hair shaft and the
regular skin surface. Medik8 use the pores as the
main route of penetration for the active. Liposomes
are the technological answer to transporting water-based
actives. They are often likened to a microscopic
soap-bubble with active ingredients inside. These
‘bubbles’ are able to deform and become
oval in shape allowing them to pass through the
pore and deliver the active to the cell membrane.
Nanosomes are simply smaller liposomes. They are
constructed in the same way and have the same properties,
although due to the fact that they are smaller in
size, they can pass through the pore and into the
cell membrane without deforming, resulting in the
active being delivered more quickly and effectively.
Nanoemulsions are like regular creams composing
of oil and water droplets interspersed by with the
droplets at very small scales to aid penetration.
You can read more about skincare delivery by reading
the article By Elliot Isaacs featured in Aesthetic
Medicine.
SLS is a foaming agent or detergent
used in shampoos, cleansers, toothpastes, etc. It
is a compound of two bio available chemical compositions:
sulphate and lauric acid. Despite some over-enthusiastic
critisism of the ingredient from a toxic perspective
which Medik8 researchers do not share, it is without
doubt that sodium lauryl sulphate (and similar derivatives)
can be irritating to the sensitive skin. Medik8
do not use any SLS, SLES, ALES or any sulphate detergents.
Parabens are widely
used in skin care products as preservatives and
antibacterial agents in UK and Europe. Since no
studies have been conducted on the long-term effects
of parabens as yet, it is difficult to evaluate
the safety of these chemicals. There was a small
study that demonstrated a link between deodorants
and breast cancer tumours but due to an uncertainty
around the source of these chemicals in the breast
tumour samples, the findings are insufficient to
back up the whole theory. Furthermore, there are
many types of parabens and certainly they do not
all have the same negative effects. However, there
is sufficient concern over the use of Parabens that
Medik8 have adopted teh precautionary principle
which is to leave them out while doubt remains.
Medik8 have replaced Paraben with alternative preserving
systems.
Perfumes are unsurprisingly an
important ingredient in the aesthetic nature of
a cosmetic product but Medik8 do not advocate the
use of artificial fragrances as they can be irritating
and so do not use them. Medik8 formulae use natural
extracts for soothing and antioxidant purposes and
these ingredients also serve to add wonderful scents.
Retinol is pure vitamin A, although as discussed,
it is RA that causes the skin care benefits as observed
in clinical trials. Retinol is converted directly
to RA by enzyme systems within the cell. Retinol
has the highest biological activity of all the vitamin
A derivatives. Retinol is less irritating to skin
than RA but still can cause some redness when raw
retinol is used in formulation. Raw retinol is also
relatively unstable and therefore it commonly degrades
in formulations, leaving little activity after months
on the shelf.
Unlike the majority of formulators, Medik8 only
uses encapsulated time-release and stabilised all-trans
retinol in their products. This can make the difference
between a product that has active ingredients left
at the time of use and poor formulations which can
irritate and do not maintain activity. It can be
2 years from production to the application to skin
and raw retinol emulsions breakdown readily. Medik8
have clinical data proving the efficacy of their
retinol stability. Medik8 retinol is designed to
have optimised stability, reduced irritancy and
high efficacy.
Retinyl Palmitate is the ester of retinol and palmitic
acid. It tends to be well-tolerated by most users
and is stable in cosmetic emulsions. Cleavage of
the ester bond leaves retinol which then gets converted
to RA as described above. It is important in anti-ageing
moisturisers (used at night if no sunscreens is
included) that a well tolerated and stable form
of vitamin A is used as the benefits of vitamin
A usage occur over time and unstable creams will
not have any effect.
The effects of vitamin A on the skin (after topical
application) has been confirmed in a number of studies.
A study utilising human skin samples found that
topical 1% retinol inhibits the increase in metalloproteinases
and stimulates collagen synthesis in both intrinsically
aged and photoaged skin. Varani et al. also used
tissue specimens to show that retinol may be able
to restimulate fibroblast growth potential, which
seems to decrease with increasing age. Varani J.
et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth
and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases
and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally
aged human skin. J of Investigative Dermatology
2000; 114: 480-86
This and other studies show that 1% retinol produces
the equivalent results to prescription strength
retinoic acid.
Medki8 Skin Ages have been defined in order to
help you select the right products for your skincare
needs. Everyone ages at different rates, due
to genetics and lifestyle; factors that need to
be considered when defining the age of someone’s
skin.
Medik8 have outlined four categories of skin age
to enable you to identify the biological age of
your skin, so that you can select the products most
suited to your needs.
View below tabs to ascertain your biological skin
age:
20`s
In 20s hormones finally calm down, skin cells regenerate
themselves properly, the skin’s microcirculation
proceeds without interruptions and the collagen
and elastin fibres are in a nearly untouched condition.
The skin is smooth and without visible lines and
wrinkles. For these reasons, majority of 20-year-olds
do not require intensive anti-wrinkle treatments,
which stimulate the collagen and elastin synthesis
(e.g. retinol products). However, undertaking preventative
measures to protect the skin from premature skin
ageing may be advantageous. Protecting the skin
from UV-induced and free-radical damage is the first
step to maintaining the health of 20‑year-old
skin. During the 20s sebaceous glands are largely
in proper function and dry skin is very uncommon,
light, non-comodogenic moisturisers with SPF would
be the best recommendation.
30`s
After the 30th year of life, skin cells slowly lose
their self-regenerating ability, microcirculation
slows down and the first fine lines and mimic wrinkles
appear on face and neck. The cutaneous layer of
the epidermis thickens , because its cells (keratinocytes)
are not being replaced as quickly as before. This
results in the skin becoming dryer, with less vitality
and youthful glow and with more uneven texture.
This may be a good time to incorporate some wrinkle
diminishing treatments such as retinol and vitamin
C as well as exfoliate the skin regularly to improve
the skin tones and roughness. More than everything
however, sunscreens and antioxidants should be the
basis of any skin care regime in this age group.
40`s
During the 40s the rate of sebum production begins
to decrease; which is only beneficial for those
with oily skin. Dry, sensitive skin with lowered
resistance to external aggressors, such as UV light,
pollution or harsh weather conditions will easily
become wrinkled. Collagen and elastin fibres begin
to degenerate, facial muscles loose firmness and
the plumpness of the face starts to decrease. Meanwhile,
deeper folds start to emerge in the nasal-labial
area and the existing wrinkles increase in depth,
length and number. Decreased microcirculation results
in deficient oxygen delivery to skin cells, which
in turn is responsible for thinning of the skin
and sagginess. Treatments with vitamin C, retinol
and hylauronic acid are the best choices for skin
care regimen in this age group, as is regular exfoliation
and thick nourishing creams with SPF.
50`s
and Mature
Skin at this age is very thin. Every 10 years the
skin’s thickness diminishes by about 5-6%; an
individual in their 50-60s has skin twice as thin
as a 25-year-old. Sebum excretion almost ceases, thus
the protective lipid barrier of the skin disappears
and the skin becomes dry, flaccid and coarse. Cell
division is significantly reduced and the collagen-elastin
matrix can no longer fulfil its role as the ‘skin’s
supporting scaffold’; leading to deep wrinkles
and folds. Additionally, individuals may suffer from
age spots and uneven pigmentation. People in their
50s onwards should pay particular attention to sufficient
skin hydration, sun protection, treating wrinkles
and folds with retinol or muscle relaxing peptides
(e.g. Pretox products) as well as prevention and treatment
of hyperpigmented areas.
People who have Normal/ Combination skin, usually
have a clear complexion with minimal blemishes.
The pore size is often small to medium, giving the
skin an even and smooth appearance. There may
be an oil-prone T-Zone in some people with Normal/
Combination skin.
Oily
People prone to oily skin will have a shiny appearance
and an oily feel to the skin. The pore size
is usually increased. The combination of excess
oil production and enlarged pores can lead to blackheads
and blemishes.
Problem skin, like oily, produces too much oil and
also has enlarged pores. The pores become clogged
with excess oil, dead skin cells and bacteria, which
leads to blackheads and whiteheads.
Dry
Dry skin can often feel very tight, with flaking or
peeling patches. The skin is matte in appearance,
with very small pores, and infrequent blemishes. Dry
skin can often be sensitive to temperature fluctuations
and is often associated with seasonal changes.
Problem
/ Acne
People prone to oily skin will have a shiny appearance
and an oily feel to the skin. The pore size
is usually increased. The combination of excess
oil production and enlarged pores can lead to blackheads
and blemishes.
Problem skin, like oily, produces too much oil and
also has enlarged pores. The pores become clogged
with excess oil, dead skin cells and bacteria, which
leads to blackheads and whiteheads.
Sensitive
/ Red
Sensitive skin is more susceptible to a reaction from
a facial product than normal skin.Reactions can cause
a rash, redness, dryness and skin sore to the touch.
Skin prone to redness (erythema) can often be suffering
with facial thread veins or rosacea. The skin
has the appearance of a high density of red pigment,
which leads to a ‘flushed’ look.
Vitamin E can be separated into eight varients: four
tocopherols ( d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol,
d-gamma-tocopherol, and d-delta-tocopherol ) and four
tocotrienols ( d-alpha-tocotrienol, d-beta-tocotrienol,
d-gamma-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol ). Alpha
tocopherol is the form of vitamin E that we use within
our bodies. Beta, gamma and delta tocopherols, known
as 'mixed' tocopherols, are other forms of vitamin
E that exist in nature alongside alpha tocopherol.
Alpha tocopherol can be in either D or L form; only
D-alpha tocopherol works in the human body. Although
the L form has antioxidant properties it is thought
to inhibit the D form from entering the cell membranes,
where it is required in order to function within the
body.
When synthetic vitamin E is created it is a mixture
of D and L forms, known as DL-alpha tocopherol, which
cannot be separated. This form of vitamin E although
much less expensive is not as biologically active
as D-alpha tocopherol, and does not stay in the body
as long meaning that it is a much less effective protector
against free radicals. When unnatural vitamin E is
produced it is synthetically produced from tar or
industrially stripped from corn oil.
Medik8 ensures that it only uses natural, stabilised
vitamin E, known as d-Alpha Tocopherol (or Natural
Vitamin E).
The function of vitamin E is as an antioxidant. Antioxidants
protect the cell structure by neutralising free radicals,
which are searching for a free electron. If these
free radicals are left un-neutralised they contribute
to the skin ageing process. The application of a topical
vitamin E product has shown to have a variety of benefits
for the skin. Studies have shown vitamin E can decrease
the effects of psoriasis, erythema and may help in
reducing the risk of skin cancer. Vitamin E also has
scar-reducing effects as well as reducing the appearance
of stretch marks on the skin. Since vitamin E is lipid-soluble,
it can have an direct antioxidant effect on cell walls.
Interaction with vitamin C
Vitamin E can also be used to help vitamin C to remain
stable, as vitamin E behaves as an antioxidant to
regenerate vitamin C; and vitamin C to regenerate
vitamin E in return.They are called network antioxidants.
Vitamin E does not offer much protection of vitamin
C from being oxidised in a water solution which is
a problem for cream and gel formulae but since Medik8
vitamin C serums are all lipid-based, vitamin E exists
in the same phase. Accordingly, C-Tetra with vitamin
E benefits from antioxidant protection both in the
packaging and on the skin.
Medik8 is the British skin research company pioneering cosmeceutical technologies to make the most effective ingredients suitable for even the most sensitive skin, yet crucially without compromising efficacy. Medik8 cosmeceuticals may be used by everyone. Apart from being kinder to the skin, it turns out this new technology is kinder to the planet too. That's why Medik8 is known as the 'Green Cosmeceutical' brand. Most skin is sensitive, it is just to what degree that distinguishes it from others. A simple change of washing powder can demonstrate this. People of all ages and skin types can periodically suffer from sensitive skin, making them particularly susceptible to certain irritating cosmeceutical ingredients. In fact, those suffering from acne, rosacea or psoriasis usually have greater skin sensitivity, which can be exacerbated by some aggressive treatment products that they use. The challenge for Medik8 is to make effective ingredients less aggressive without reducing potency. We do this in many ways for example using film-encapsulation, chirally correct actives, non-acid derivatives and patented anti-erythema technologies. Of course, using any effective strength actives, for example retinols and fruit acids, will cause some stinging to even the toughest skins, but Medik8 pharmacologists have minimised the degree of irritation and in some cases made it absent all together. No longer are the most powerful and effective ingredients beyond the reach of people who want the gain without the pain! And who doesn't want that? Ask your skin care professional about what Medik8 can do for you.
